St Luke's on the Camino

As part of our centenary celebrations this year, St Luke’s Parish in Pinner, northwest London, decided to undertake a pilgrimage along the Camino to Santiago de Compostela. This is one of the oldest pilgrim routes, dating from medieval times and after Rome and Jerusalem was the most popular. We walked the last part of the Camino Frances, there are many other routes but they all converge at Santiago.

From Sarria it is 112 km to the Shrine of St James and 37 hardy individuals set out on May Bank Holiday with the blessing of Fr Robert Plourde, parish priest at St Luke’s, and fellow pilgrim. The weather was good, not too hot for walking and as we set out we had no idea what to expect. We had done preparation walks, but the daily march through rolling countryside took its toll on feet, knees and hips; the majority, however, were able to walk the full distance, at their own pace. There are many cafes and Churches en route and the famous yellow arrows and shell signs guide you at every turn. In a sleepy village we came across a 14th century chapel complete with original frescos on the wall, every step teems with history and spirituality.

The joy of doing the Camino is in the camaraderie of the group itself, the new friendships formed, discovering and sharing the myriad of reasons why one is doing the Way and the feeling of togetherness with other walkers along the route. As you travel along, everyone greets each other with “Buon Camino”, everyone smiles and will always chat and relate their story.

The Way is truly international, with walkers from UK, USA, Australia, China, Canada, Germany etc. all moving towards one goal. We met a 72 year old lady who was on day 36 of 40, having walked from southern France [approx., 800km], staying in the basic hostels, because it was something she had always wanted to do and now had the time. A young German lad, who was on his own when we met him but was accompanying his 80 year old Granddad who had been forced to rest that day. He told how his grandfather was struggling the day before and he had had to carry both rucksacks as they walked - no mean feat especially uphill. We met them both later along the Way at a café and it was wonderful to see the bond between them. Age did not seem to be a barrier; we met another couple from Spain, where the grandfather was 90 and his granddaughter walked alongside him. Finally there was Y. from Finland, who was walking 300km from Leon. He moved slowly and struggled with the hills but was always able to smile and wish us well. We met him again in Santiago and we congratulated ourselves; he then told us that last year he had been diagnosed with cancer and spent eight months having chemotherapy. When he recovered he told his wife he would do the Camino, he’s now done it and plans to do it again!

It is difficult to describe the emotional, spiritual and physical response to arriving at the Cathedral in Santiago. After walking every day for six days through beautiful countryside, mostly engrossed in our own thoughts and prayers and getting away from the routine of our lives, to reach the final destination was overwhelming. The final kilometres from the outskirts of the city to the cathedral is tough, the pavement is long and inserted with the shell sign so you can’t go wrong. This leads through narrow streets filled with shops which must have been built a millennium ago, past people who encourage you on the last stretch and through an arch where a man is playing the bagpipes, into the Plaza de Obradoiro and at last see the cathedral.

Above the pilgrims door on the east side of the Cathedral is a roundel with the sign for Alpha and Omega on it. These signs are reversed so Omega, the end, is first, it symbolises the end of the pilgrim’s Camino and Alpha, the beginning, the start of the rest of their journey towards God. The Mass for Peregrino’s [at 12 every day] was the final act of the pilgrimage and we were fortunate to have Cardinal Pel concelebrating and giving the sermon. The Botafumeiro is then swung along the transept by 8 priests. The giant thurible eventually arcs up to the vaulted ceiling, with flames inside and incense billowing from it, like the Holy Spirit.

As you walk along the Camino you have to collect stamps on your special passport which is then verified by the Church at Santiago and you are issued with your compostela, a certificate to confirm your achievement. This year is also the anniversary of St Francis of Assisi walking the Camino 800 years ago in 1214. The Church dedicated to him gives you another certificate to commemorate this and allows you to share a bond with the Saint.

Walking the Camino, you are never alone and should anything untoward happen, if you wait for a few minutes another pilgrim will come along and assist you. It is a unique journey especially in today’s world. I am extremely proud of my fellow pilgrims from St Luke’s and honoured to have taken part in such an unforgettable journey. I know the consequences will be immeasurable and I would recommend it to anyone.

 For more information visit the Confraternity of St James website: www.csj.org.uk/